GE NetworX NX-8V2 Programing HELP

[NYC Alarm]

Can anyone help me program this control panel.

Self installed with simple 5 zones, four hard wired window contacts (all home runs) and one door.  The keypad is a LED model.

 Zone 1 is door entry and needs a 30 sec delay. 

This unit has many features, but I only require a simple alarm the sound if one of four windows are opened or a delayed alarm for the door.

The instructions are way over my head... Keypad address? partitions? user codes? Program modes? Dialers?



 

[fostiras]

Hi NYC Alarm and welcome to our forum,

please read the following topic as to understand some basics and then get back with your questions :

http://www.diysecurityforum.com/index.php?topic=22160.0

The topic is about the NX-8E which is similar for the basic steps.
You don't need to worry about keypad addressing if you only have one keypad.
Since you have a LED keypad you have to learn to understand how the panel is displaying you values and options in program mode.
Consider options like switches. Eight switches are packed together in a Segment (8 bits = 1 byte). A Location can have one or more segments packed in it. Sometimes a Segment is not 8 options (switches) but just a numerical value (0 to 255).

Zone 1 should be assigned to Zone TYPE 3 (entry/exit delayed type) which is already by default.

Zones 3,4,5 should be assigned to Zone TYPE 6 (perimeter instant) which is also already by default.

Only zone 2 is assigned as Zone TYPE 5 (follower interior-motion sensor) and you should change it to TYPE 6.
Zone Types are called Configuration Groups in the manual.

If you don't want to mess up with End of Line resistors use the EOL defeat feature for Zone Types 3 and 6. Then you connect the zones without resistors in the panel. EOL resistors are for wiring supervision. I personally don't recommend them for a small home system and a beginner. If you want to put EOL resistors and have wiring supervision, they MUST be connected inside or near the sensors (end of Line) - not inside the panel as this would result in a hardware EOL defeat!


Please post inside the dedicated Caddx section.

Hope this helps
george

[Quarterwave]

Sure...put it back in the box and trade it for a Concord 4. You will thank yourself many times over. The complications of the NX far outweigh any advantages.

[Natethegr8]

Sure...put it back in the box and trade it for a Concord 4. You will thank yourself many times over. The complications of the NX far outweigh any advantages.

The NX series of panels do have a steep learning curve especially for those who have never tried to program any alarm panel.  It can be done tho, and you have come to the right place if you feel like attempting it!

Fostiras is the NX guru round these parts and I'm sure he will get you up and running.

[NYC Alarm]

Thanks for the quick reply,
I've reviewed the forum topic referenced and still having trouble.

Within the Caddx topic I see the NX-8V2 is a "massive overkill"  for my simple needs of protecting four windows and a door w/delay.

The caddx topic member states "shorting" all 8 zones w/ 3.3 resistors" and the bell before wiring anything to the control?
Presently I have the hard-wired, normaly closed contacts on four windows plus one door (on zone 1) all connected to the control box.

I've entered the program mode to install factory defaults (I think) and the all 8 zone led lights are blinking. I've  de-energized the system and repeated, but still end with all 8 blinking zones.

Is there a simple step be step procedure to follow for the five perimeter zones (contacts) I want to protect.

NO Fire, Phone dialers, partitions, users, wireless stuff.

Thanks, Rich

[fostiras]

The caddx topic member states "shorting" all 8 zones w/ 3.3 resistors" and the bell before wiring anything to the control?

Rich, if I start telling you programming steps and you have major wiring loop problems then it would be very difficult for me to track down your problems.
So, I just say start from scratch, what's so weired about it?
This way you are also checking if your panel and keypad are working properly.
If you, right now, disconnect all the zone loops from the panel (and the bell) and connect 9 3,3KOhm resistors (8 across Zone1 and COM, Zone2 and COM,...,Zone8 and COM and 1 across BELL+ and BELL-) you will get a green steady READY light to start with.
If the SERVICE (yellow) light doesn't clear we must check the error and try to clear it first.
Please let me guide you to set up your system - it's not just some keypresses but at the end you'll see it will be very easy.

Do the resistors and tell me when you get the READY light.
If you don't have any resistors, don't worry just use wire jumpers to short out the 8 zones. You will not get a READY light this way - it's just like skipping the first step. DON'T use a jumper for the BELL terminals. By the way what sounding device are you using? Tell us the brand/type so I can check if it's a speaker or a siren.


If you don't like my guiding technique and you are very sure about your wiring and connections, skip the first steps and disable the need of resistors for types 3,5 and 6 by pressing:

* 8           enter programing mode
9713         default program/installer code
 0#           panel address
115 #        Zone Type 3 Characteristic select Location
  *            you are at Segment 1 - advance to Segment 2
  *            advance to Segment 3
  *            advance to Segment 4
  2            to toggle and enable option 2 (enable the EOL defeat)
  *            to save the edit and advance to Segment 5
  #            to exit Location 115
119 #        Zone Type 5 Characteristic select Location
  *            you are at Segment 1 - advance to Segment 2
  *            advance to Segment 3
  *            advance to Segment 4
  2            to toggle and enable option 2 (enable the EOL defeat)
  *            to save the edit and advance to Segment 5
  #            to exit Location 119
121 #        Zone Type 6 Characteristic select Location
  *            you are at Segment 1 - advance to Segment 2
  *            advance to Segment 3
  *            advance to Segment 4
  2            to toggle and enable option 2 (enable the EOL defeat)
  *            to save the edit and advance to Segment 5
  #            to exit Location 121
EXIT         to exit address 0 (the panel itself)
EXIT         to exit program mode and return to normal

After these steps zones 1 to 5 must be cleared (with the door and windows closed) and zones 6 to 8 will remain faulted. To disable zones 6 to 8 short them out with wire jumpers.
You will get a READY light with all zones not showing faulted.


george

[NYC Alarm]

George,  I think we're getting somewhere.

I followed your recommendation and disconnected all the zone loops and connected the resistors across zones 1 through 8 , plus the bell.
WOW....I have a READY LIGHT and no BLINKING ZONE LIGHTS !

You asked about the sound devices used. I have an existing outdoor siren....Emergency Products Corp. model 49  6-12VDC Siren and a new indoor ATW Security model DT-24  6-14 VDC siren.  Both are not yet mounted and if required, I'll replace them with whatever you recommend. 

I'm assuming I can now follow your step by step programming steps.

One question, you noted that zone 2 is assigned by default  as Zone TYPE 5 (follower interior-motion sensor). I don't have a motion sensor now, but should I leave zone 2 open (and short it out with jumper wires) for future use as interior protection now?

Thanks again, I'll await your reply before starting the programming steps.

Rich.

[fostiras]

Hi Rich,
It's good to know you have a READY light !!!   
Please tell me if the service light is off.

Good idea about the motion sensor.

If you want wiring supervision resistors for zone 1,3,4,5 and six must be serially connected near their sensors (end of line). By leaving them inside the panel you defeat the supervision feature.

I usually recommend to disable wiring supervision (=enable EOL defeat feature)by doing the programing steps from my last post and disable the need of EOL resistors for zone types 3,5 and 6.
After that step you can close all zones with jumper wires.
Then each time disconnect a jumper wire and connect a zone, one at a time , checking the keypad to see if it updates the status of the zone correctly.

Since we are talking about 12 volt sirens the resistor will stay there forever! (BELL+ and BELL-). The sounding devices are fine, I just have to check about their current draws to see if the panel is able to feed them both properly. For now on and until the end of your project leave them out.

george

[rdean]

Hello George. I have been following your instructions to Rich. I am in pretty much the same place he is with respect to installing the system. My setup will eventually have one door, three motion, three glassbreak, one speaker, one aux siren, two keypads.

For now I have disconnected everything like you suggested, and also disconnected the second keypad. I have installed the resistors and have a green light and power light. But the keypad is beeping. I can press any key and the beeping stops for five seconds, then starts again.

I have not set the keyboard address or partition like the manual says. What is my next step?

Thanks,
Remington

[NYC Alarm]

George, I think it's working, although haven't connected the siren yet.

READY and POWER LIGHTS is on
SERVICE LIGHT is off

I've programed to disable wiring supervision ( EOL defeat feature) with your step be step instructions.

Also changed user code and tested all contacts, keypad is responding well.

Zone 2 is jumped out with wire for future use as interior protection with motion detector.  Unused zones 7+8 also jumped out with wire.

Ready to connect the two sirens, (interior + exterior). Will the 3.3 resistor remain over the (-) / (+) terminals (shorting them out) and siren wired connected to same?

Last question, is their any future programming for zone 2 required if I connect a motion detector?

Thanks, Rich

[fostiras]

Hi Rich,
as said before zone 2 is by default a type 5 zone. If you later add a motion sensor the  zone will be delayed upon entry (following zone 1 delay) and automatically bypassed in STAY arming mode.

The panel is defaulted for a speaker connection and not a siren. To disable the internal speaker driver and make it a voltage output upon an alarm you must enable Location 37, Segment 2, Option 1. Press:

* 8
9713
 0 #
 37 #    enter location 37 @ segment 1
  *       advance @ segment 2
  1       toggle/enable option 1 of segment 2
  *       save and advance @ segment 3
  #       exit location 37 without having to scroll through the remaining segments
EXIT     exit module address 0  =  the panel
EXIT     exit program mode

Your indoor DT 24 siren is a dual tone one. Black wire goes to any panel COM terminal and is the common minus. The yellow (12volt positive) wire produces a steady tone for a burglary event and the red (12volt positive) wire produces a warble/yelping tone for a fire event. Any one of the tones draws 400mA (0,4A). I couldn't find the current draw of your external siren. Your present total current draw with the DT 24 siren, one LED keypad and a future motion sensor should be estimated at 500mA. So there are about another 500mA left for the external siren, since the panel can output a maximum of 1 Amp.

I want you to tell me if you want to use both tones (burglary and fire), since this would require 2 extra relays to drive the double indoor siren.

Also please look for the current draw of your external siren.
If you can't find specs and you have a multimeter with an Amp measurement (0-10Amp), connect the Amp meter serially to the siren and power the siren from a battery  -  Plus wire from the battery to red wire of the Amp meter, black wire from the amp meter to Plus connection of the siren, minus connection from the siren to minus of battery. The red multimeter cable usually has another input (on the multimeter) to measure 1 to 10 amp!!!

If the siren draws a lot more than 500mA you will need a second power supply. If it draws about 600 to 700 mA you will need another relay to power the siren directly from the battery.

george

[fostiras]

Hi Remington and welcome to our forum,
do you have LED keypads ?

Is the yellow SERVICE light on?

Do you have a 3,3K resistor across the BELL terminals?


george

[NYC Alarm]

George, Thanks for your patience in walking me through this complicated maze.

Rather then dealing with additional relays and secondary power supply for the siren you referenced in your last post, I purchased a Low Current Draw  siren:
MG Electronics model MG865JR  drawing only 390mA  to replace the old siren with unknown mA draw. . Hope this keeps me under the control panels amp limits.

Also bought a Honeywell Aurora - Pet Immune PIT Motion Sensor, draws <4mA and to install later.

I've change the panel from the default for speaker and make it a voltage output based on your step by step instruction. WOW it works.

Just want to confirm that the 3.3 resistor remains "crossed over" the bell (+) bell (-) inside the panel box and the siren (+) / (-) wires connected also.

Thanks Rich.

[fostiras]

I'm glad you're happy Rich with your new system! 

When you're going to connect your motion sensor connect it's power to the AUX power and COM panel terminals and its zone loop from NC to Zone 2 and from C to COM (the loop is polarity insensitive - just be sure to be NC and not NO).

george

[NYC Alarm]

George, Thanks again for your patience in walking me through this complicated maze.
All systems are working, I've setup the motion detector and tested everything.
As noted in prior posts....you are the guru round these parts.

If your travels ever take you to NYC fell free to contact me, I'd welcome the opportunity to return the favor. I'm a captain and have a pleasure boat and would love to give you a harbor tour and try some fishing.
Rich... RNJnyc@aol.com

Also, in addition to your technical talent, your singing is great. We checked out your link to MySpace and the New York..New York as second to none.